Rokkaku Bridle

This is from Michael Graves' website, which is sometimes down for reconstruction. It works. Check it out. 

Tuning Rokkaku Bridles: the easy way Copyright 1995 Michael Graves and Ilene Atkins, Leading Edge Productions

Start with a completely unbridled kite.

Cut four lines longer than you expect you'll need (Longer than you'd expect the bridle to be)

Secure one end of each line to one of the bridle points along the spreaders.

Take the lower two lines in hand and draw them together at the very top of the spine. Tie them off with a simple overhand knot and trim the excess line away.

Take the upper two lines in hand and draw them together at the point where the lower spreader crosses the spine. Tie them off with an overhand knot and trim the excess line away.

Cut a length of line roughly two feet long and tie a loop in each end. Fold it in half and mark the middle with a marking pen.

Larks head each end of that line around one of the overhand knots in the lines on the kite ( the ones tied together in 4 and 5).

Larks head either a loop or a ring into the middle of that line, at the point where you previously marked it. This is where you connect the flying line. That's it. Bridled as such, your kite will fly in a wide range of winds right out of the bag! We have made over rokkaku and never needed to tweak the bridles significantly.

Misc other Considerations:

Of course, there are a few other variables that could be considered. For example, the depth of bow used in the spreaders will impact slightly on the choice of optimal tow point. In practice this matters very little unless you are trying to tune for kite fighting.

For parabear lifting we rarely adjust our bridles unless the wind is extremely light. Even so, a kite adjusted for very light wind will not handle well as a lifting body because it will react very poorly to the load of the bear on the line. Typically a kite that's tuned too high will fly reasonably well on its own, then overfly badly as the bear rides the line.

Lastly, such a four point bridle presupposes a fairly robust frame. In a typical 7 - 8' rokkaku, we use 0.505" fibreglass for the spine, and 0.370" or 0.414" fibreglass for the spreaders. You can select a frame one size lighter overall if you add a couple of extra bridle points to better support the lighter frame. We have seen bridles involving 5 and 7 points, although they are a bit more difficult to tune in general.